I have a little farm now and that’s definitely home. It’s a totally different landscape to my dad’s farm, lush and tropical, 25 minutes from Byron but still I can find solitude at the local breaks if I’m willing to walk 10 minutes….which I always am.
But honest, home is in the breath. No matter if I’m in the shaping bay, stretching or playing guitar. When I breathe out, a small smile comes to my mouth and I am happy, this is my feeling of home and now I know I am going to be a dad soon, the smile is even more solid.
Has your homeland changed, on land and in the water?
Change is a constant. I am not great in crowds, but every human on earth has the absolute right to experience the joy of riding a wave. The connection should ultimately have you becoming a better person, looking out for and loving wildlife, our environment and its protection. Overpopulation and human expansion is inevitable and it is fast-paced and hectic, I pull over all the time on my little country road to let others in a hurry pass by, but I like to think the inherent nature of a human is good. For me, the biggest thing is our beautiful, wonderful world and all the animals that reside within it.
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